All the World’s a Stage, Even the World of Uniforms

by Jackie Rosselli

What’s a woman with a background in the arts and theatre doing in the uniform business? Plenty, if she’s Karen Gerson, founder and co-president of Seventh Avenue Trade Apparel, a New York-based manufacturer specializing in quality designs for the hospitality industry. In its brief 16-year existence, Seventh Avenue Trade Apparel has compiled an impressive customer base that includes distinguished hotels, restaurants and health spas, as well as airlines, railroads, cosmetics companies and casinos. Its blend of innovative styling techniques and personalized service has gained the respect of uniform pros and end users alike, with its efforts reaping kudos from many industry experts. Indeed, Seventh Avenue Trade Apparel has won four top prizes and three outstanding achievements in the annual Image of the Year Awards, a program honoring the best in career wear sponsored by the industry’s premier trade group, the National Association of Uniform Manufacturers and Distributors.

Uniforms weren’t exactly on Karen Gerson’s mind prior to 1985. Before that, it was more likely to see her designs on William Hurt or Glenn Close than on a hotel worker or train conductor. The recipient of a master’s degree in art and another in fine art, Gerson’s first career was in theatre and television, and she has designed costumes for the aforementioned actors as well as others in venues ranging from San Diego’s Old Globe to New York’s Lincoln Center. Why leave the glitz behind to start a company in the decidedly less glamorous uniform industry?

“Actually, it’s not as different as it may seem,” says Gerson. “I’ve taken my theatre training and brought it to my career and corporate apparel wardrobe programs. When you think about it, many of the hotels and restaurants for which I design can be likened to sets or stages. When I look at a property, I do not aim to make uniforms for workers. Rather, I design outfits for a theatrical production.”

According to Gerson, the idea to go into the uniform business first was introduced to her while she was doing graduate work at Brandeis University. “A classmate had met someone on a plane who was talking about uniforms,” explains Gerson. “Knowing that I had always wanted to start my own company, she approached me afterward, believing that it might be a good business opportunity.” Gerson quickly dismissed the idea, unable to see the connection between her design skills and the more commonplace efforts that were stereotypically associated with the uniform industry. Yet the desire to start her own business remained, as did her yearning for roots. “I was tired of the nomadic theatre lifestyle,” says Gerson. “I had kids, and I felt it would be best to settle down.”

Believing her talents more suited the bridal industry, she met with a friend who was an executive at Liz Claiborne to pursue that avenue further. “He, too, said I should get into the uniform business, and he was so convincing that I walked out of his office and decided that day to start my own company.”

And slowly, she did just that. Friends who believed in her abilities helped raise capital, and she worked from her home in the very beginning. Knowing little, if anything, about the business, she set the bar low, earning her stripes and learning the trade by designing for various cocktail lounges and small restaurants.

“Looking back, it was an easy transition,” notes Gerson. “In the theatre, you have an environmentthe theatre itselfthe set, the lights, the mood. By making the right choices, you help the playwright illuminate something about the character. With uniforms, the building is the set and the people we are outfitting play a role. Yet, there are very specific parameters and objectives in this industry as opposed to what I was used to.” Could her humble start be repeated in today’s business climate? “Unless it’s able to find a niche, it’s unlikely that a small business would have my outcome,” Gerson admits.

Through word of mouth, the company took off. Seventh Avenue Trade’s first big break came in 1988, when it was hired to do a portion of the uniform program for Vista International Hotel in Washington, D.C. The design earned the company its first Image of the Year nod and its new high profile lead to other upscale hotel projects, including the Ritz Carlton in New York and Philadelphia’s Rittenhouse, award winners as well. “The awards gave us credibility,” notes Gerson. “But it is my belief that as long as you fulfill the customers’ objectives you have been successful.”

In 1992, Wayne Dubois joined Seventh Avenue Trade as co-president. “I had originally met Wayne while he was at All-Bilt, another industry manufacturer,” says Gerson. “We hit it off immediately, had good chemistry and a similar approach to style and design.”

Since its inception, Seventh Avenue Trade had worked exclusively with end users. But that has changed with the recent launch of their new housekeeping line. Distributed through a network of dealers, the designs can be seen in traditional hospitality settings as well as health spas, nursing homes, cafeterias and military-operated hotels. The decision to distribute the in-stock program through dealers was a natural for this line, according to Gerson. “It’s the best way to go,” she says. “Today’s dealers are extremely savvy business owners. They are local, familiar with the customer and can provide the extra care and attention that sometimes gets lost on the manufacturing level.”

There are three components to the housekeeping program: the cord collection, the solids collection and the executive collection. Offered in five distinctive styles in an easy care 75/25 percent polyester/ cotton blend, the cord collection is done in eight contemporary shades featuring a single- or double-breasted dress with self ties, on-seam pockets and white combo. Tunics can be teamed with a matching, reinforced elastic-waist trouser or solid trouser. The cord collection also boasts an optional apron that attaches easily to dress ties and is offered with eight different piping trim colors. Available in five colors with white accents, the solids collection includes dresses, tunics and trousers. There is a choice of two fabrications: 65/35 percent polyester/cotton and “comfort fiber” 100 percent polyester. Finally, the executive collection features draped coat dresses in two styles and five classic fashion colors. The garments come in a user-friendly blend of 75/25 percent polyester/wool.

“Housekeeping apparel is a very neglected area of the business,” says Gerson. “We’ve produced a very focused line with details that you don’t see elsewhere. It’s a Rolls Royce product with exceptional value, and we’re very excited about it.”

And so are the dealers who have chosen to stock this line, according to Gerson. “The collection has been well received, creating a very comfortable relationship with our dealers,” she says. “It’s a wonderful way to sell a product.” One reason for the enthusiasm is the wardrobe’s measurement scale, which adjusts appropriately from misses’s to women’s sizing.

The flexibility of the design helps control stock levels. And many of the garments have a little something extra, that theatrical splash that has been the hallmark of Seventh Avenue Trade designs from the beginning. Men’s shirts feature generous pleated patch pockets and a “zipper down” design that eliminates inconsistency and makes for a clean, professional look. Dresses boast a double action back, a deep kick pleat and an extra full sweep. Even the buttons reflect an attention to detail not found in similar lines. Deeply grooved, the buttons protect threads from wear and pressing.

“Today’s customers expect those little extras because they’re exposed to so much through the media,” Gerson explains. “They’re very sophisticated consumers, which creates greater challenges than when I first started out.”

As for the future, Gerson would like to continue designing for the hospitality industry, while expanding the housekeeping line. “Adding some custom elements to the housekeeping program isn’t out of the question, but the demand and numbers have to warrant it.” And Seventh Avenue Trade will continue to produce apparel that is influenced by the theatrical background of its founder. “To achieve the best possible look, you must design within a context, look at the whole package,” notes Gerson. “That is what I learned in the theatre, and what I have applied to my work in this industry.”